Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Pond Inserts - 7 Explanations Why I Do Not Rely On Them

1. Inserts will ultimately leak. Producers have different warranties, varying from 15 to 3 decades, having a 75-year existence expectancy. The truth is, it'll certainly last as lengthy because the guarantee claims as lengthy while you let it rest within the box, and store it inside your garage.

When you put it in the earth, nature's forces start a contest to determine what will break its water-tight integrity first. Competing for that title of reason are gophers, ground squirrels, chipmunks, rats, moles, roots from trees, plants and weeds, sharp rocks, heavy rocks, sharp objects, and moose (if you reside in Alaska).

If your leak does develop, it's difficult to discover it without getting rid of all of the rocks since the lining, draining water-feature, distributing the lining out on the floor, and checking every sq . inch. A small pin hole can lose five gallons every 24 hrs.

2. Bottom drains can't be utilized with inserts. Lining advocates discount using bottom drains mainly simply because they prefer to not, since roughly half the sources for leaks in lining ponds come from bottom drains. Once the lining is cut to set up the drain, sealants are utilized together with pressure rings to create a water-tight seal. The sealants dry up or break lower and seal collars warp, leading to time-consuming, pricey repair.

3. You can't use out-of-pond pumps. Since lining advocates avoid using bottom drains, they cannot use above-ground pumps, which leave not one other choice but to make use of sump pumps. These pumps were initially made to pump water from sump starts in cellars . and cellars. They aren't made to save energy actually, those are the finest customers of one's per horsepower of pumps. The biggest store/wholesaler / retailer of inserts, pumps and add-ons sells a sump pump which produces 4200 gallons each hour at 704 w for 9.00. This pump must be drawn from water-feature to wash debris from the intake screen. It's a potential shock hazard to seafood and humans and is stuffed with oil, that has the potential for seeping out and since the the surface of water-feature.

In comparison, an above-ground pump that supplies 600 gallons more each hour (4,800) for under half the power cost (348 w) and charges over 0 less. Running this pump 24 hrs each day can lead to a savings well over 0 each year within the sump pump. Quite simply, the power savings would purchase the above mentioned-ground pump and set one more 0 sales the very first year alone.

In the event that is not enough incentive, another reason to make use of the above mentioned-ground pump is the fact that there's no be concerned about this blocking since we install two 8" anti-vortex drains at the base. The only real maintenance needed would be to from time to time take away the lid in the leaf basket around the pump and dump the debris in the catch basket. Since this is a higher-efficiency pump, it's very quiet, and standing right alongside it you are able to barely listen to it running.

With lining ponds the sump pump is situated in the outdoors fringe of water-feature, not in the centre as with professional concrete and rebar buildings. We place two 8" anti-vortex drains in the center of water-feature, 24" apart. As seafood waste along with other suspended contaminants and algae spores settle towards the bottom, they're attracted in to the drains and removed through the filter. An ultraviolet light is positioned in series between your filter and pond return to be able to kill pathogenic bacteria which could cause disease and switch water-feature eco-friendly.

In much deeper ponds which use inserts, all of the waste materials forms and collects at the base and rots, creating ammonia that's toxic to seafood along with other marine existence. Just because a sump pump is situated close to the outer fringe of water-feature and never in the centre at the base, maximum efficient circulation can't be arrived at. This produces toxic cloudy areas within the pond's bottom. Most lining ponds I have seen are just 24" deep, and circulation isn't an problem in these instances. However, koi seafood aren't suggested in these types of ponds koi it's advocated a depth with a minimum of 3 ft.

4. You can't make use of a ruthless easy to maintain biofilter having a lining pond. When utilizing a sump pump, make use of a gravity feed bio-falls, lower-flow or upflow filter. Many of these are inefficient and lead to high maintenance costs. They should be washed frequently by getting rid of all of the waste-laden filter media. As you would expect, this can be a filthy, stinky, untidy job which neither my female clients nor the majority of my male clients be prepared to perform.

Aqua Ultraviolet's ruthless filter consists of condition-of-the-art technology enabling it to merely return cleaned having a turn from the handle. The release hose can direct the seafood waste and particulate debris to waste, or you can use it to water your garden or lawn. Our prime pressure filter is made to handle 5 to 10 occasions the level of water that the gravity flow unit or bio-falls are designed for.

Additionally to any or all this, the patented bead style of the hepa filter enables for optimum area by which nitrifying bacteria can live and break lower nitrites. The "Lining Guy" wants you to employ his untidy, dirty, stinky inefficient filter since it is his filter, also it costs hardly any to fabricate in comparison towards the professional bead filter. My opinions about filters originate from years of experience, and seeking virtually every one that's available on the market. I even leaped around the "filter bandwagon" for a few many used my very own design.

After I discovered the Aqua Ultraviolet filter marketed in a number of pond magazines, I tried it out. I have used it for more than 10 years without any problems whatsoever. My clients clean the filter using the turn of the handle and remain clean themselves. An excellent side help to the hepa filter is you can have two times the amount of seafood inside your pond than while using the inefficient gravity filters. Incidentally, this isn't a compensated endorsement of the product!

5. Safety is an issue when pond inserts are utilized. Following a hole is dug, a pond lining is positioned within the hole after which it's full of water. Rocks will be placed round the perimeter of water-feature to hide the advantage of water-feature lining, and much more rocks are stacked on a mound of grime engrossed in another lining to produce a waterfall. From my 26 experience, I have found that many grown ups are similar to kids if this involves ponds and waterfalls.

They inevitably climb around the rocks from the waterfall and also the pond's edge. Because the rocks are loose, they are able to move, tilt or change on water-feature lining, leading to someone falling and becoming hurt or, worse, drowning. With professional concrete and rebar construction, all of the rocks are cemented in position, supplying a safe and secure foundation just to walk or climb on.

6. Pond inserts limit pond shape and configuration. How come most lining ponds circular or oblong in design? Because pond inserts are distributed on comes and for that reason available only in square or rectangular shapes. If the L-formed pond was created, you should bunch up an inordinate quantity of pond lining in to the inside corner. It's not only wasting costly sq ft of pond lining material, it causes it to be hard to stack rocks on the top from the bunched up lining in order to hide it.

Without a doubt, "Lining Guy" you are thinking, why does not he point out that special formed pond inserts could be customized? Okay, I'll bring it up! Custom pond inserts can be created to buy. And today I'll point out that this personalized pond lining will set you back around creating an expert pond with rebar and concrete which will serve you for a lifetime. There, I pointed out it!

7. Finally, Integrity. After I read articles compiled by the "Lining Man's" disciples, boasting concerning the ungodly profits produced from pond lining construction, I can not help but question the way they sleep during the night. The net income produced from one day's work -- digging an opening, shedding inside a pond lining, covering its surface and perimeter with loose rock, and inserting within an energy-drawing sump pump -- equals things i produced in 4 or 5 times of labor. One large difference: their warranty is a year, if you are lucky only one constructed with concrete and steel is for life!

I am the person who yesteryear clients of "the Lining Guy" known as 2 or 3 years in the future, asking me to repair the leak within their stinky eco-friendly lining pond. A customer in Poway, California compensated ,500 for any lining pond having a necklace of rock round the perimeter along with a thrice 4 feet abs plastic waterfall at its edge. I really needed to suppress fun after i first viewed it from respect in my client's grief.

This pond were built with a bottom drain that leaked however, the main lack of water turned from the tree root puncture. Additionally, it had been apparent this "Lining Guy" disciple was without his customer's long-term financial wellness in your mind once i discovered an inexpensive, 7- amplifier energy-drawing "Jacuzzi" pump. We changed it having a 3.6 amplifier high-efficiency pump that provided nearly two times the flow.

Next, we drawn the lining, reconfigured the pond's oblong contour around serpentine, and built water-feature and waterfall spend using rebar (8" on center) and 3500 psi concrete with stealth fiber added. We installed two 8" bottom drains, added an expert skimmer, a Venturi air supply valve, an all natural rock waterfall, a turtle island that supported a 25 feet bridge spanning water-feature, an "Ultima II" ruthless, back-washable filter, ultraviolet light, lighting in water-feature and waterfall. along with an electronic AquaFill pond water leveler. All of this required us eight days from beginning to end and price only ,000 a lot more than the customer initially compensated.

To conclude: Could it be any question why I dislike the "get wealthy quick" plan of pond lining construction? The "lining guy" hates hearing me make reference to concrete and rebar ponds as "professional construction." They insist their lining ponds are professional construction. And when so, so why do they offer the identical kits to complete-it-yourself home owners regarding the construction business owners services?

I'm proud to assert over 2,000 satisfied clients over 3 decades. 90-5 % of my clientele originates from recommendations by satisfied clients. I haven't got to question why that's so.

What is the spot for lining ponds? Yes, if you are leasing and be prepared to relocate 2 or 3 years. Or maybe you are establishing a brief display. No, I am not totally against inserts. They are ideal for truck beds and economical pools!

Really, I've made 1000's of dollars through the years from pond inserts - by changing all of them with concrete and steel!

Monday, June 24, 2013

Finally - Eco seem water filtration - Eco-friendly design





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Saturday, June 22, 2013

Berkey Light With 2 - 9 inch British Berkefeld Ceramic Filters by Berkey Light

Berkey Light With 2 - 9 inch British Berkefeld Ceramic Filters
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Berkey Light With 2 - 9 inch British Berkefeld Ceramic Filters

This system has a storage capacity of about 2.75 gallons and when in use it stands 26.5 in height with a diameter of 9. The system stands 21 when used without the base (included). Configured with Two 9" filters, the system can purify almost 1 Gallon per hour.The Berkey Light Filtration System provides reliable, user friendly, powerful yet economical water purification while enhancing the ambience of any environment. Each system comes complete with a base.The Berkey Light system is designed for use during travel, outdoor activities and during unexpected emergencies. This powerful system purifies both treated water and untreated raw water from such sources as remote lakes, streams, stagnant ponds and water supplies in foreign countries, where regulations may be substandard at best. Perfect for outdoor activities and a must in hostile environments where electricity, water pressure or treated water may not be available.

Feature

  • Unit equiped with 2-9 in Super Sterasyl Ceramic Filters
  • Removes chlorine taste and odor >96%
  • Removes cysts Giardia & Cryptosporidium: >99.99%
  • Removes E Coli and Cholera >99.99%
  • Removes Typhoid and Klebsiella Terrigena >99.99%

Friday, June 21, 2013

Composition and Properties of Drilling and Completion Fluids, Sixth Edition

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Composition and Properties of Drilling and Completion Fluids, Sixth Edition
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The petroleum industry in general has been dominated by engineers and production specialists. The upstream segment of the industry is dominated by drilling/completion engineers. Usually, neither of those disciplines have a great deal of training in the chemistry aspects of drilling and completing a well prior to its going on production. The chemistry of drilling fluids and completion fluids have a profound effect on the success of a well. For example, historically the drilling fluid costs to drill a well have averaged around 7% of the overall cost of the well, before completion. The successful delivery of up to 100% of that wellbore, in many cases may be attributable to the fluid used.

Considered the "bible" of the industry, Composition and Properties of Drilling and Completion Fluids, first written by Walter Rogers in 1948, and updated on a regular basis thereafter, is a key tool to achieving successful delivery of the wellbore.

In its Sixth Edition, Composition and Properties of Drilling and Completion Fluids has been updated and revised to incorporate new information on technology, economic, and political issues that have impacted the use of fluids to drill and complete oil and gas wells. With updated content on Completion Fluids and Reservoir Drilling Fluids, Health, Safety & Environment, Drilling Fluid Systems and Products, new fluid systems and additives from both chemical and engineering perspectives, Wellbore Stability, adding the new R&D on water-based muds, and with increased content on Equipment and Procedures for Evaluating Drilling Fluid Performance in light of the advent of digital technology and better manufacturing techniques, Composition and Properties of Drilling and Completion Fluids has been thoroughly updated to meet the drilling and completion engineer's needs.

  • Explains a myriad of new products and fluid systems
  • Cover the newest API/SI standards
  • New R&D on water-based muds
  • New emphases on Health, Safety & Environment
  • New Chapter on waste management and disposal

Thursday, June 20, 2013

DIY gravity feed water purifier filter demo with CamelBak HydroLink Filter Adapter





This is a DIY gravity feed water filtration connected straight to a hydration bag using a CamelBak HydroLink Filter Adapter.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

American Plumber W50W String Wound Sediment Filter





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Monday, June 17, 2013

Whirlpool 4396508





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"Worry Free Water" Auto-Ship with WaterFilters.Internet





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Sunday, June 16, 2013

Katadyn KFT Expedition Water Filter from Katadyn

Katadyn KFT Expedition Water Filter
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Katadyn KFT Expedition Water Filter

The best water system for large groups and relief organizations. The most trusted filter used by relief organizations and white water outfitters around the globe.

Feature

  • Ideal potable drinking water solution for large, mobile groups; often used by trekking outfits and relief organizations around the world
  • Durable and easy to use; exclusive, silver-impregnated ceramic element produces up to 26,000 gallons before it needs replacing
  • Highest flow rate of any portable filter at one gallon per minute; comes with pre-filter and convenient carrying bag
  • Measures eight by 23 inches (W x H); NATO # 4610123490574; cleanable 0.2 micron ceramic depth filter; 183.4-ounce weight
  • Includes limited three-year manufacturer's warranty

Friday, June 14, 2013

Best Reverse Osmosi Systems W Premier RO-Pure 4-Stage Best Reverse Osmosi Systems





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Thursday, June 13, 2013

Autocross Purchasing Guide - Choose the best Vehicle

In my opinion, autocross could be a very exciting and fun sport. I've took part in several occasions within my neighborhood. I discovered the hobby to be really addictive too.

In the my other hobbies, I believe that one is the greatest "bang for that buck" so far as thrills opt for your vehicle. Everyone can participate. Every vehicle (some clubs have exceptions for this though like no SUV's, no Trucks) can race. The excellent factor relating to this type of race is you are in competition with others inside your class usually based on the SCCA, however, you are well on the program alone so there's minimal possibility of striking other cars.

The toughest part about autocross (apart from finding out how to race) for me is choosing the best vehicle. Sure, use a daily driver, but that's not suggested if you are planning to sign up in a number of occasions annually. Autocross can make put on around the tires along with other components very rapidly and may get costly extremely fast. I would suggest to obtain a vehicle which you can use for autocross. This is often a "trailer vehicle" or perhaps a vehicle that you could still drive on the highway, but only use with this hobby.

You will find 4 key components to think about when choosing a vehicle for autocross:

1) Which kind of vehicle to obtain
2) The Cost from the vehicle
3) The general condition from the vehicle (if used)
4) Aftermarket upgrades/modifications

Which Kind Of Vehicle To Obtain FOR AUTOCROSS:

For autocross racing, many people would think that the vehicle needs to be very effective, small, 2 doorways and modified. This isn't entirely accurate. That can be a kind of vehicle could be nice, it's not needed to become competitive in autocross.

Keep in mind that most autocross occasions and clubs possess the cars arranged directly into some kind of class. The club I participate with stick to the SCCA Class recommendations. The classes help group the cars therefore the same "level" of automobiles usually stays competitive within each class.

This is accomplished to prevent the "greatest and quickest is betterInch condition of thought. It might be unfair to place a heavily modified Porsche GT3 facing a regular Ford Focus. For this reason they are doing that.

So, to select the best vehicle for autocross, you'd most likely desire a coupe or convertible FIRST if at all possible. Sedans can function well too, however, many sedans aren't targeted for modifications, although, the game sedans nowadays are actually beginning to consider over.

Stick shift could be suggested, however, for those who have a computerized that's Perfectly acceptable. You might want to consider buying and selling it for any manual later on to stay competitive. Again, you will find still "sport change" type automatics available which are improving and every day.

Ideally, you'd would also like a rear-wheel drive vehicle for autocross. RWD cars typically have better control and handling generally. I understand some fanatics available will disagree beside me, but that is OK. However, I have tried personally several front-wheel drive cars running with the best.

Cost:

The cost of purchasing a vehicle for autocross is definitely the factor for me personally. I, like many more, can't afford an costly vehicle for autocross. You will find, however, individuals that may afford it and cost continues to be something to allow them to consider.

The $-00 range:

This is actually the range the majority of us beginners wish to start. Obviously, free is nice, but think about the 3rd component (overall condition) if this option involves mind. Several cars that may succeed and also have a large amount of upgradable choices are the next:

1989-1997 Mazda Miata - Excellent energy to weight ratio. It's very popular at autocross. 1979-1991 Mazda RX7 - Fast small vehicle, handles well. Many upgrades available. 1989-1998 Nissan 240sx - Several aftermarket upgrades, handles perfectly. 1990-1999 BMW 3 Series - Very versatile vehicle. You'll find excellent models within this range now. 1988-2000 Honda Social/CRX - I've come across several models compete well in autocross. 1984-1999 Toyota MR2 - Low center of gravity, great performance, mid engine. 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Bald eagle Talon - Many upgrades, some models Turbo AWD. 2000-2007 Ford Focus - Very competitive cars. SVT models obtainable in cost range. 1997-2003 Volkswagen Golf - Hatchbacks always like autocross. VR6 models obtainable in range. 1990-1999 Acura Integra - Such as the Social, very as good as many upgrades available.

There might be a couple of more cars which i skipped that come under this cost range. The technique I personally use to search for cars can differ with respect to the type I'm searching for. I'll use local classified advertisements, Craig's list. I'll also employ the larger vehicle searches and expand my general "hunting" area. I've effectively found great cars using VEHIX, AutoTrader in addition to Government Sites.

But how about the autocross cars over the 00 range? Well, I'm glad you're believe that since i am going to list them below.

For those who have some cash to utilize and wish to go more recent, you can look at the next cars:

The ,001-,000 range:

This range may include more recent cars in addition to pre-possessed cars which are a maximum of a couple of years of age. Remember, cars usually depreciate extremely fast, so as time pass, a few of the more recent cars could be within achieve at a lower price and are ideal for autocross. The cars below spring to mind within this range:

1998-Current Mazda MX-5 - Still same fundamental vehicle, but more energy because they got more recent. 2003-Current Volkswagen Golf - Much more modified compared to previous versions, compete well. 1992-1997 Mazda RX7 - 3rd Gen is twin-turbo and may compete in autocross. 1992-2006 BMW M3 - M3's are equipped for racing. Some more recent models will fall within this range. 1998-2003 BMW M5 - M5's are extremely effective and compete within their class well. 1994-Current Ford Mustang/Cobra - Very versatile vehicle. Competes well at school. 1994-2002 Camaro/Firebird - Competes well at school. Many autocross upgrades. 2007-Current Mazda Mazdaspeed3 - Turbo, hatchback, competes well in autocross. 2003-2008 Nissan 350z - Great autocross vehicle, extremely popular around the track. Special Autocross Package cars like the V6 Stalker fall within this range too.

Now, this cost range can differ in automobiles. Many of these cars continue to be new and could require financial loans to buy them.

The ,001 spectrum will contain a few of the current-day models along with the apparent "super cars" all of us respect like the Corvettes, Viper, Porsche, Ferrari, Lotus yet others. I won't include a listing for individuals because if you're purchasing certainly one of individuals to have an autocross vehicle, you probably did your quest.

OVERALL CONDITION From The VEHICLE (USED):

When purchasing another vehicle for autocross, address it like when you're purchasing your everyday driver vehicle. You would like the vehicle to become relatively free from major problems. Autocross racing can put force on the car's frame, the suspension, the brakes, the tire and also the total body from the vehicle.

You would like to be certain the vehicle is not in almost any major accidents. Frame repair or frame damage can be quite harmful mixture whenever you autocross. That's the most crucial factor to check on when ever purchasing a vehicle for autocross. I've experienced and used the service by Experian known as AutoCheck. They provide an limitless quantity of VIN inspections for just one of the service options and also the cost is more preferable than any other services available. I have tried personally it while shopping and is available in very handy when you're checking a brief history of the vehicle.

The following important item to evaluate the vehicle is major component problems for example smoke being released of the rear of the exhaust, major oil leaks (small leaks are required of all used cars for sale) slight/major getting too hot from the engine. Autocross is outdoors and also you push the vehicle towards the limit. You would like the main components to stay in the very best shape they may be. The pointed out problems can make you stranded in the track if you don't consider them.

It's my job to possess some expectation to complete minor repair or preventive repairs on my small automobiles after i am purchasing to autocross them. When I mentioned above, small oil/fluid leaks are "OK" and may usually be fixed effortlessly. Small leaks inform us the vehicle is simply used and might not be struggling with the leak consequently. Large/major leaks inform us the vehicle might have been neglected through the previous owner and could carry residual problems unseen right now. When searching in a vehicle, start up, drive it around using the A/C engaged (even when it does not work). When you're carried out with the exam drive, let it rest idling when you walk round the vehicle ongoing to examine it. When the vehicle comes with an getting too hot problem, frequently it is now time it'll show. This tip has assisted me avoid several beautiful autocross cars which had an getting too hot problem.

Devices and hoses are my most typical "preventive" repair I actually do, even when they aren't an issue. It is usually better to know when an essential component continues to be changed instead of to "guess" and trust the prior owner. Water pumps, too, fall within this category sometimes.

One factor people check when purchasing a second hand vehicle would be the tires. Yes, this will be significant to have an autocross vehicle, although not to determine how "good" the tires are, but to ascertain if the vehicle needs an alignment. Autocross is all about handling and also you need to be certain the car's stock "handling" ability is how it ought to be.

Why don't you be worried about the tires? Well, tires ought to be one factor to think about purchasing for the autocross vehicle to start with, therefore the existing tires ought to be removed anyway. Tires are most likely probably the most bought put on item an autocross member tends to buy. Lots of autocross racers brings some tires for racing, one for driving home (individuals who don't make use of a trailer) plus some may even bring spares for that racing tires. This really is so common that Tire Rack offers tires only for autocross. I have tried personally them and they're a good option to obtain tires with this.

AFTERMARKET MODIFICATIONS FOR AUTOCROSS:

Should you ever consider the aftermarket realm of the car industry, you will know you will find literally 1000's of places to appear and purchase. I'll list a couple of spots that many people don't want to look, but remarkably have things for that autocross fans.

First of all, autocross cars don't always need major upgrades to become competitive. A person may use a regular vehicle and compete against fellow stock automobiles and grow competitive. Once you begin to change or upgrade heavily, begin to maneuver into different classes and contend with other cars which are equally modified. Remember that when you wish to alter something.

Usually, I only say customize the easy things first: Intake, exhaust and general tune-ups. Most autocross motorists don't go not even close to that. These ought to be the first stuff you attempt to upgrade when you take part in autocross to obtain the most performance from your vehicle.

If you choose to go further to become more competitive, my next recommendation could be suspension and the body roll modifications. Don't forget, certain upgrades in this region may improve your class. Make sure to look at your club or groups rules using these modifications.

Usually, the quickest upgrade for an autocross vehicle could be front and back strut tower bars/braces. They're usually affordable to purchase and simple to set up. They're also very modular and therefore when you purchase these, they are effective along with other suspension components in position (usually). This modification helps stiffen the car's suspension and frame helping with cornering.

The following modification recommendation would then function as the front and back sway bars and links. These parts also assist the body roll while cornering and handling and can often be modular towards the suspension system in general.

The ultimate suspension upgrade is often the most costly: The struts (shocks/springs). This upgrade usually utilizes the above mentioned products, but advertisements more stiffness, more reaction to the handling and often lower the vehicle overall for any lower center of gravity.

After you have modified the whole suspension, my next recommendation is always to upgrade the brakes (a minimum of the pads). This helps your preventing ability for individuals moments in which a tap from the brake is required throughout a lap. Please bear in mind that top performance brake pads usually put on much faster than OEM.

Among the last a few things i recommend to upgrade may be the tires. Now, I am not to imply that you ought to not FIRST buy new tires whenever you autocross, however i am saying to not UPGRADE these to an autocross/race tire at this time. Most autocross fanatics will explain to get accustomed to the stock/regular tires in your vehicle first.

When you are accustomed to stock type tires, modifying these to a race tire or much softer tire will really enhance your lap occasions (this is the theory anyway).

One further note. I suggest changing the liquids inside your vehicle with as numerous synthetics as possible. Synthetic liquids have greater warmth resistance and may go ahead and take intense moments you'll be wearing the vehicle throughout the autocross laps.

Wednesday, June 12, 2013

How City Sewer Systems Work

Typical city sewer systems are made to collect for treatment or disposal both waste water from houses and companies including liquid sewage from kitchen areas, baths, toilets, showers, and sinks, in addition to rainwater that runs off streets and parking lots, or drains from downspouts or roofs.

Sewer systems depend largely on gravity where water is collected because it naturally flows downhill and rerouted to some lake or treatment facility, with the exception of really low places that moving stations might be needed to maneuver water uphill to bigger sewers for collection.

Rainwater and sewage are frequently separated utilizing a storm drain system with catch basins to avoid them from mixing together, and therefore are then channeled via a network of pipes and pump stations to holding ponds out of the box frequently the situation with storm water plus some surface runoff, in order to waste water treatment plants for processing.

Some older combined systems include storm water along with the waste water, however this situation isn't preferred and usually prevented because of wide versions in rain fall levels that may overload the machine, reduce efficiency of waste water treatment plants, and wish unnecessary pricey processing of storm water that may well be directly redeposited without treatment or minimally treated into local rivers or retention basins.

In cities or regions where there's great contaminant contaminants for example chemical toxins, bacteria from animal waste, manure and pesticide sprays, sediments from soil, airborne contaminants, organic compounds, and vehicle grease and oil that rainwater may get from roofs, bridges, the environment, ground and streets, it might be essential that many storm water be also treated.

Some cities alternatively install grit chambers, hidden vaults with media filters, vortex separators to get rid of coarse solids, retention basins and holding ponds that permit the contaminants to stay out naturally, or wetland conditions that behave as an all natural filter to lessen contaminants.

Sanitary sewer mains frequently follow streams or are installed along primary roads, particularly in downtown places that storm runoff earnings about nine occasions greater compared to wooded areas, and can include covered manholes for reasons of maintenance access. In certain cities, gray water or clean water, including all waste water except toilet waste and food waste, has been maintained individually from black water to become recycled to be used by citizens in watering gardens or perhaps in toilet eliminating.

Storm sewer pipes which handle rainwater are usually bigger across because massive levels of water could be created throughout major storms, as the sanitary sewer system frequently uses more compact pipes to hold waste water from houses, structures, and production facilities to some treatment plant. The pipes often get progressively bigger across because the sewage and storm water move toward the waste water treatment facility to avoid or minimize overflows, backup copies, and flooding throughout periods of peak rain fall.

Pipes from homes that provide to gather rainwater runoff and sewage are known to as building sewers and also the portion of piping that runs in the house towards the property lines are considered a personal-side connection, whereas the town-side connection covers the region in the property line towards the sewer primary.

When the waste water reaches a minimal point because it gets near its destination and also the flow slows, it always should be pumped through pressure mains towards the treatment facility where it's initially strained with grates or by other way to separate out bigger components before processing. To help treat the release, solids are removed for incineration by permitting these to separate and settle out, bacteria will be temporarily added to assistance with getting rid of nutrition and organic material, and finally nitrogen and phosphorous are removed and swimming pool water is put into sanitize the rest of the water.

nuvoH2O Testimonial Video - Suzanne Scudder (Soft Water - No Salt)





www.nuvoh2o.com/social - nuvoH2O is a water conditioning system that converts hard water into soft water. nuvoH2O doesn't require salt, electricity or consta...

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Best Players Boating Ideas to Help You Stay Safe around the Water - All At Ocean

All at Sea the UKs leading waterfront newspaper presents its top 100 boating and sailing tips to keep you and your boat safe whilst you are out sailing or boating both inland and out on the ocean.

1. First of all, don't try do everything yourself. Brief your crew, explain if necessary, demonstrate and then delegate. Monitor thereafter.

2. Keep a warp handy in the cockpit if you do not have a throwing line.

3. Always move forward on a sailing boat on the windward side. If you do loose your footing, you have further to fall and more things to grab.

4. To get rid of out of date flares, take them to a chandler and ask him to take them in, then buy the replacements from him.

5. Think boom, particularly on a reach. If you have the slightest doubt of the skill of your helm, rig a boom preventer. Make sure it can be released from the cockpit.

6. Check your lifejacket before putting it on every time. On a long passage, three or four times I had to tighten the gas cylinder because it was loose.

7. On a delivery of 3,200 miles, I went up the mast ten times. Mind you we did have a halyard part during the first 200 miles, so I was a trifle cautious!

8. Remove your jackstays if leaving the boat for some time. Sun will weaken them and they may fail.

9. Think 'what if?' as you brief your crew Think in particular of fire, gas explosion, man overboard, collision, and injury.

10. Think about recovering a man who has fallen overboard. A simple 6:1 tackle with a couple of strops and carabinas is easy to make up.

11. If you have black dust around your alternator belt check for alignment and tension.

12. If your boat is connected to shore power never leave it for extended periods even if you have a galvanic isolator fitted.

13. If you have fitted a gas heater to your boat recently be aware that you may possibly have invalidated your insurance policy.

14. Do you service your engine prior to lay-up or during your winter maintenance? The impeller on a boat I skippered failed two days after she had gone back into the water.

15. If you have the slightest doubt about your position or course, slow down, stop engines, heave to or anchor if you are really unsure of your position. Re-check your navigation plan and cross check with radar, compass fixing and soundings.

16. When piloting your boat into harbour at night many have a mass of lights, neon, traffic, street, discos, fish and chipperies all lit up so that buoys and leading lights can be quite impossible to see against it all. Look at the large scale chart of your destination port to find an approach direction that is better than others.

17. Do you know that if a severe gale warning is given, the mean wind speed is expected to reach force 9 (41knots)? Do you know what imminent, soon, and later mean; what the definition of the various of states of visibility are, and do you understand what slowly, steadily and rapidly mean in relation to pressure system movements? I have a simple handout with all the useful expressions.

18. When using an electronic chart plotter do not use the waypoints at the harbour entrances. Anticipate the direction from which you will be approaching and chose a waypoint which will help you to "eyeball" your way in.

19. When laying up ashore be careful about leaving battery chargers and dehumidifiers on. There have been fires.

20. If you are more than a day sailor think about attending a sea survival course.

21. Place two distress rockets and two red hand held flares in the chart table which can be grabbed quickly in an emergency.

22. Keep one hand for yourself and one hand for the boat and warn crew about keeping their centre of gravity down low.

23. In the galley in a heavy sea always wear waterproof trousers and boots when cooking in rough weather, pour water from the kettle into cups or mugs in the sink, no fry-ups at sea, never walk up the companionway steps with hot drink or food, always pass cups or plates up or place them to leeward in the cockpit and no food or drinks anywhere near a chart or the chart table.

24. On long passages have a dog watch in the late afternoon, where the duration is half the normal three or four hours. One team can prepare the evening meal and the other can clean up and get the boat sorted out.

25. Invest in a gas lighter and every now and again spray a whiff of gas at your sensor just to make sure it is working.

26. Taking bearings with a handheld compass at night, the navigator was surprised to find how poor his fix was. The compass was old and the beta light too weak to read bearings so he was using a torch. The metal parts in the torch and maybe the batteries as well, must have caused some deviation, which gave a cocked hat over a mile wide. If the beta light is not giving you clear readings the compass needs a service or replacing. Charge up the Beta light by holding a lighted torch over the compass for 20 seconds or so.

27. Propane gas lighters apparently do not completely switch off. They can leave a very small flame which is almost invisible and which can slowly heat the area around it until it catches fire.

28. Diffuse torch lights by wrapping some material around the lens cap and securing it with a rubber band or you can colour the lens with a fibre pen or even nail varnish.

29. Try to use a head band torch with the red bulb to help retain your night vision. Always make a point of turning the light off before looking at someone to talk to them.

30. Encourage crew to leave their strops clipped on in the cockpit when they go below, unhooking from the lifejacket or harness so they can clip on before emerging up the companionway.

31. When rowing a dinghy in a cross tide, line up the head of the person in the stern with a static object, or alternatively two objects in transit. Keep your objects lined up and you should arrive at where you wish to land.

32. Once ashore take a bearing of the yacht's position before returning and use the compass to help you get back. If returning in the dark, always take a torch to warn other craft. If you have some distance to row take flares, a handheld radio and, of course, all should wear lifejackets. I also take a bailer, the pump, repair kit and oars if I have an outboard motor.

33. A nurse I sailed with covered the split ends of her husband's fingers caused by salt water with Vaseline and then put rubber gloves on top to soften up the skin and speed healing.

34. Ball bearing blocks are unsuitable for high static loads and may be distorted. Plan on blocks with plain bearings or ones with a higher rolling load rating.

35. If you drive a motor boat from the fly bridge be wary of having your radar scanner on. There is danger from electromagnetic energy, especially to the eyes.

36. To estimate distance, sight over your thumb first with one eye and then with the other, the thumb will move over the background, perhaps first crossing a prominent building and second a church spire. The chart will tell you that these two are say 400m apart, use the ratio of distance between eye and outstretched arm/distance between pupils, usually 10:1 and the distance off is then 4,000m.

37. Check your engine compartment to ensure that there is no combustible material which could help a fire to spread.

38. To get back on course when a transit is open, simply turn towards the nearer of the two objects, leading lights or beacons.

39. If you are correcting your course from a reverse bearing, aim along the bearing the mark should be, and then turn to bring the bearing correct.

40. To avoid setting off with your mains cable still attached to the shore, wind the electricity umbilical around the stern line.

41. The simple way to tell how many hours to sunset is to place your arm fully outstretched so that your palm kisses the lower limb of the sun. Then count down the number of full palm widths to the horizon - that is the number of hours till sunset.

42. If you are not sure whether the wind or tide is stronger when anchoring stop the boat either cross wind or cross tide and see which force takes you in a particular direction. You will then have an idea of which direction you need to point the bow.

43. A laptop power pack can produce interference which may block Navtex signals and you may have to resite some equipment.

44. Put seasickness pills under your tongue to get it into the system more quickly.

45. When you fasten the shackle pin in your ground tackle, hold the open shackle in your right hand with the open end away from you and put the pin through from the left using your left hand. The upward jerking of a pitching boat should tighten the shackle pin rather than loosen it. It goes without saying that the pin must be moused.

46. Go through your first aid kit and make a list of drugs. If there is an accident you ask for medical advice, it is possible that the doctor will ask for the list of drugs.

47. If your gas alarm goes off turn off the gas at the cut off switch, turn off all the burners on the stove, warn everyone and evacuate the boat or at least get up on deck. Open all hatches, deadlights and scuttles. Do not touch any electrical switches. Pump the bilges manually to evacuate any gas.

48. Electronics can fail so make a note in the log of time, log reading and course steered when setting out. If something goes wrong with the GPS, you can at least work up an EP if visibility closes in.

49. If you get lost at night, stop, and gain time to sort out the problem. Motor into wind or tide so there is the least amount of speed over the ground. This gives the navigator a better chance of gathering his thoughts.

50. When crew are working on the boom, it is essential that the main sheet is never eased off. By passing the fall of the sheet between the lower block and the line you can indicate that the sheet must not be touched

51. I think the only way of getting someone unconscious out of the water is for a member of crew to put on a dry suit and help the unfortunate on board. A dry suit does not cost much and could save a life.

52. A couple of years back I had what seemed like an engine fire when the bendix on the starter motor failed to disengage from the fly wheel and with the engine running the starter motor became a second alternator and overheated producing clouds of smoke. A marine engineer advised that starter motors should be taken off engines annually and the lubrication checked to ensure that the bendix worked properly.

53. The purpose of an EP is to tell you where you are going to be in the future. You will then be able to tell if you are going to be set into danger.

54. Remove dry powder fire extinguishers from the bracket occasionally and shake it until you can feel the powder shifting inside.

55. 40 per cent of boats checked by the RNLI have lifejackets which will fail, many due to gas cylinders being loose.

56. Bear in mind that if you are using French charts over the other side of the Channel, most of them are based on the datum ED50. Your UK charts are based on WGS84. So change the datum point on your GPS.

57. Mark your fuel and oil filters with the date and engine hours when you change them, using an indelible pen.

58. Draw up your pilotage plan and write it down using indelible fibre pen on the inside of a used fruit juice carton which has been well washed, you then have a permanent record which is waterproof.

59. An easy way to find out the rise of tide at any given moment is to take a quick fix and note the echo sounding reading. Compare the sounding at the fix with the depth shown on the chart and you have a good idea what the rise of tide is at the time of the fix.

60. The anchor windlass is for laying or weighing anchor and not as a strong point for digging in.

61. To avoid starting the engine with the inlet seacock closed I turn off the engine inlet seacock and hang the ignition key on a small lanyard over the seacock handle.

62. If the ignition key fails to return to its correct position once the engine starts the solenoid will stay engaged and then heat up. Lubricate the switch throughout the season.

63. Wait 20 seconds after firing up the engine to check for water coming out of the exhaust because there could have been a pint or two left in the engine casing after shut down.

64. I am told that if you have a dud handheld flare which fails to go off, you can light the dud from one which has worked properly just before it expires.

65. Anchoring factors: Seabed and holding ground, is my anchor suitable? Tidal flow, currents. Clear of fairways, channels and ferry routes. Adequate marks to find clear exit if we have to leave in a hurry. Length of stay. Depth of water now, next low water's depth, how much chain? Swinging circle, clear of other moored craft. Weather now and the forecast, do we have shelter? Distance to shore, suitable landing places. Distance to nearest pub.

66. A valise liferaft should not be stowed outside. If water gets inside the covering, it may prevent proper inflation. They should be stored in a locker or down below but easily accessible.

67. On a long passage the barometer is one of the most important instruments on board. It is the trend and its speed which really matter. Keep an accurate record.

68. Sea sickness: I always keep a bucket in the cockpit, much better that the sufferer is sick into a receptacle of sorts than tries to be sick over the side.

69. Apparently we are all made with our hand size in similar proportions to our height of eye and length of arm. So even if you have arms like a gorilla, your hand will still be able to give a rough idea of how many degrees away from a fixed object something lies. I tend to use the forestay or some object stored on the stern, a horseshoe buoy, danbuoy or perhaps a GPS antenna.

70. On a long passage we did all our washing in a bucket with a sealed lid and the motion of the boat cleaned all our shirts and underwear. With soap which works in salt water, you can save on fresh water. You cam dangle your laundry in a bag with suitable soap over the bow whilst at anchor; the pitching motion of the boat agitates the washing. Not advisable in most harbours or marinas.

71. Never hang up your hand bearing compass on its lanyard so that it swings. It could swing against a polished wooden bulk head surface and score it or the compass could be damaged.

72. When piloting a yacht into a port or harbour with a tricky entrance, with many course changes and plenty of dangers, record your track on your chart plotter. Getting out can be made easy by following the reverse of the track.

73. When cooking in a heavy sea, wear oilskins and boots.

74. When buying a lifejacket that it comes with an integral crutch strap and sprayhood.

75. Checking with the manufacturer that it is acceptable to store a canister liferaft on its side because with some the CO2 bottle will put pressure on the canister seals and moisture may get in.

76. Hold handheld flares over the side and wear a very strong glove. Look away from the flare because of its brightness. Point the flare down so that burning plastic dross falls into the sea.

77. A lifejacket should be flaked like a sail and it will then inflate more quickly and effectively. Practise putting on our lifejackets in the dark.

78. Before a long distance delivery find out what rescue services there are in each country. We are all so used to the RNLI, it may come as a bit of a shock to find out what little there is available elsewhere.

79. If aiming for a mooring where there is a cill in the approach, always enter on a rising tide.

80. As well as a grab bag with essentials think about a bucket for a loo, two sponges, one to mop up seawater, one to mop and keep condensation to supplement the water, plenty of Carnation milk, extra sea sickness pills and unbreakable spectacles?

81. Ever since I heard of a crew member cross threading the regulator whilst changing the gas bottle and causing a gas explosion, I have made it a two man job. One man does the actual change, and a second checks that it has been done properly.

82. If you have doubts about GPS accuracy it may be worthwhile checking whether you have the correct datum entered.

83. To fill a bucket with sea water under way drop the bucket in by its lanyard upside down. Pull the bucket up sharply, providing your boat speed is not too excessive, the bucket will come up nearly full.

84. Skippers often underestimate the additional demands placed on inexperienced crew when things began to get difficult and try to do too much themselves. Budding skippers should show crew what to do and then delegate wherever possible.

85. Know your IRPCS (International Rules for Preventing Collisions at Sea) and be aware of how you should approach or cross a traffic separation scheme (TSS).

86. When mooring to a pontoon, quay or rafting, use one rope for each job, each one able to be eased under load.

87. Discourage crew from leaving mobile phones close to your chart table to avoid damage to electronics. Better still, have the damned things turned off!

88. At anchor before nightfall I take a bearing of the best and clearest course out to sea, so that in an emergency I know in which direction I have to steer to get away. With GPS it is a simple matter of entering a few waypoints marking a danger free route to sea. A really slick skipper will have a crew member pressing the waypoint button on the GPS at each turning point whilst navigating in.

89. Pull loops on to the ends of halyards so that messenger lines can be rigged to replace them.

90. Depth soundings are an essential aid in navigation and your fix, whether using the compass or a GPS must be cross checked. I always put my mark on the chart, check against the echo 84. 85. 86. 87. 88. 89. 90. sounder and enter the time, log reading and course steered on the chart.

91. Some extremely experienced sailors timed the interval between sighting a vessel on the horizon and it reaching close to their position at 15 to 18 minutes so they decided to scan the horizon every 11 minutes to give a buffer for safety. Once visibility deteriorates, the interval must be reduced.

92. When teaching power boat skippers I ask them to find out how much wash a boat produces at certain speeds. See how far away you have to go so that the wash will have no effect on a boat being overtaken or at anchor. Add 50m and then ensure that you go no closer.

93. An old tomato or orange juice container, split open. laid flat and washed can be used as a waterproof notebook.

94. A transit between a part of the boat, your eye and a vessel considered on a collision course will soon show you whether you are, in fact, going to pass close. This can be useful for passing headlands too.

95. Crossing the Channel be aware that there could be fog around which may not be mentioned in our shipping forecasts but may be forecast by the French. Fog often occurs in the area of the Alderney race and the Cotentin Peninsula when the tidal stream changes to the west.

96. The key to finding the mark is to run a bearing from a really prominent charted feature to the point you want, convert this bearing to magnetic. Then ensure you are to seaward of the mark (by sounding or fix) and steer down this bearing line. Take tidal push into account.

97. Given that you know your position, take a bearing on the chart to the mark you wish to identify. Convert this to magnetic, go up on deck with your hand bearing compass and swing it round until the magnetic bearing you have worked out from the chart is in the compass window. You should see the mark you are looking for.

98. Research has found that after a fall, the more dangerous conditions occur when the barometer starts to go up again. There are times when there is a lull and shortly after that the wind comes in more strongly and from a different direction producing a more dangerous breaking sea.

99. With the large genoas it is difficult to see under the headsail. If sailing off the wind, harden up momentarily and sail for a few seconds closer to the wind and to observe the arc which had previously been blanketed. If sailing close hauled, bear away for a few moments.

100. If you leave your lines "cheesed" and left for a while when moored they will collect pollution, grow mildew and they will not benefit from the odd dowsing from rain. By cow hitching, your lines can be quickly and easily available with one simple tug and they will stay cleaner, longer.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Hi-Flo xN Valve Series: Culligan Matrix Solutions





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Sunday, June 9, 2013

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Saturday, June 8, 2013

DIY Gravity Filter





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Friday, June 7, 2013

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Wednesday, June 5, 2013

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At Master Airbrush we're also well aware of the fact that there are a selection of these products available on the market, nevertheless we took the time to look at the things our buyers actually want in the Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor-The Complete Set Now Includes a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started after which we attempted to make it. We have loaded up this model with all the different features you happen to be asking for after which added several exceptional variations of our own that we believe could make it entirely remarkable.

We realize it is irrelevant how well we have developed our new Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor-The Complete Set Now Includes a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started and exactly how many amazing functions we assemble into it, if the cost is not appropriate, you're not going to purchase the item. Considering this we have not only came up with very best product out there, but you will love our introductory low cost that is sure to ensure you will find it entirely appealing. Have a look at the features, check out the amazing good price and then you will discover what genuinely makes ours so special.

Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor-The Complete Set Now Includes a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started
List Price : $139.95

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Master Airbrush Compressor Features and Specifications:

Powerful 1/6 Horsepower Airbrush Compressor that's Light-Wieght Portable and Compact.
Features "Air-On-Demand" System that shuts off air when not in use.
Precise Air Adjustment Control from True Diaphragm Pressure Regulator with Gauge and Water Trap Filter that provides precise adjustment of airflow
Automatic On/Off Shutoff: Preset for automatic turn off when air pressure reaches 50 PSI. Preset for automatic turn on at 25 PSI. The reduced running time means there will less motor wear and less heat-related moisture enabling a longer compressor life.
Maintenance Free: Oil-less Piston Motor
Full 1 Year Warranty

Type: Single Cylinder Piston Compressor
Power: 1/6 Horse Power
Voltage: 110-120V / 60HZ
Air Control: Pressure Regulator with Gauge and Water Trap Filter.
Air Delivery: 23 Liters/Minute; 0.7 CFM @ 50 PSI
Working Pressure: 12-35 PSI
Auto Stop/Start: Stop at 57 PSI, Start at 27 PSI
Maximum Pressure: Factory Preset at 57 PSI
Connections: 1/8'' BSP
Dimensions: 6.0" H x 5.0" W x 9" L
Electric Cord: 6 foot

Feature

  • High Performance Master Airbrush Brand Gravity Feed Airbrush Set with a 1/5 HP Quiet Air Compressor
  • 1 Year Warranty on Compressor and Airbrush
  • Great Starter Airbrush Kit for Beginners and Students Ideal for the Handyman, Craftsman,and Hobbyist
  • Sprays with most types of paint media: Watercolors, Acrylics, Inks, Dyes, and Automotive Urethanes
  • Powerful 1/5 Horsepower Airbrush Compressor that's Light-Wieght Portable and Compact.

Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Water Conditioning Handbook

You will be thrilled by the Water Conditioning Handbook, new item from which out in the industry now. Our no limits capture and try to make use of some different technology to actually make it genuine for everybody. A number of the study that we place in this item came from the consumer relative experience and also the length knowledge. Which is a compelling item that make is much more success and nicely know in the industry around the world.

Water Conditioning Handbook
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This new item idea that we try to came across to make a fantastic item for consumer around the world came from our consumer details and fantastic inclusion modern day knowledge. Water Conditioning Handbook will probably be in every single family members that seeking a far better lifestyle. In every single procedure away in the intelligent manufacturing and intensive product's top quality control lead us on the confident that we'll have the ability to give our consumer the perfect answer that they've been seeking. Simultaneously as deciding on household development and private item is especially critical for you. We've created our productive the Water Conditioning Handbook from our extensive situations experience inside the firm.

From this moment on you are able to actually uncover Which is surely not too challenging for you and your loved ones to have a basically comfy life style and take pleasure in your time by spending tiny of the spending spending budget.

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Water Conditioning Handbook

11 1/4" X 8 1/2", blue cloth with silver lettering, includes 24 chapters containing anywhere from 7 to over 30 pages each, as well as an index. Chapter headings include Water Impurities, Coagulation and Settling, Pressure Filters, Gravity Filters, Swimming Pool Water Purification, Iron and Manganese Removal, Hot Process Water Softeners, Silica Removal, Household Water Treating Equipment, and more. It is illustrated throughout with b&w photographs, diagrams, charts, etc.

Monday, June 3, 2013

Water Purification - Experiment Kid





Experiment to wash muddy water via a four step filtration process. Rocks, sand, carbon and paper.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Community Outreach : Water Purification Project Haiti





Anatomy Man's James Coulter and Jon Gellman traveled to Haiti soon after the Earthquake of 2010 to setup any adverse health clinic. The work is continuing to grow and today t...

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5" CeraCarb Filter Element Super Sterasyl Candle & Case from Doulton or AquaCera

Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5" CeraCarb Filter Element Super Sterasyl Candle & Case is going to be your life benefit for your life. You will not know until you've a touch of our fine invention thought and receiving it for your gorgeous property. In case you're thinking to be our client, we are in a position to guaranty which you just might be exceptionally pleased. This really is probably essentially essentially the most spoken merchandise that had been passing on from time to time. The looking for an proper spending away your spending spending budget is end here with us. As a terrific deal of persons had been acquiring encounter in discovering an owner, they are all seriously satisfied, why spend considerably far more than what you really need to have.

Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5
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We constantly spend attention on item superb and also proper value. The attentively productions are in each and every and just about every step. That's why Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5" CeraCarb Filter Element Super Sterasyl Candle & Case turn into well-known basically. This item is an advance selection within the sector within the moment. You'll discover plenty advertising and considerably a good deal more possibilities on digital communication to draw you attention.

Base on all our understanding and information in our item innovation. Creating your strategy towards the comfort life with our merchandise with the most global exclusive Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5" CeraCarb Filter Element Super Sterasyl Candle & Case. With our ideal of team technicians are considerate to this creation for you and your house. Doulton or AquaCera seriously confident which you're going to be fulfilled.

Click here to read Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5" CeraCarb Filter Element Super Sterasyl Candle & Case full review

Doulton AquaCera Mini Traveler Personal Gravity Water Filter w/ 5

Note: Some restrictions apply to the sale of ceramic filters in the states of CA, WI, MA & IA. I can't ship to these states. Doulton W9374001 Personal Gravity Water Filter with Carry Bag and 6.5 inch SuperSterasyl CandleThe Traveler personal gravity water filter has been specifically designed for travel and the outdoors. The water in the upper chamber passes through the Doulton SuperSterasyl filter candle into the lower chamber where the filtered water is collected. The unit is made from high grade polished stainless steel and is extremely compact, small enough to take anywhere yet able to provide the cleanest, safest drinking water possible in any situation or location around the world.Features:World renowned Doulton ceramic filter technology with over 150 years of quality manufacturing For use with municipal or natural water sources Ideal for travel, camping, emergency relief, everyday use Saves money over expensive bottled water Total capacity 2 Liters (upper & lower chambers combined) Unit comes complete with a carrying bag Filters out: Pathogenic bacteria (cholera, typhoid, salmonella, E coli, etc.), Giardia, Cryptosporidium, and other parasites, All types of particle contamination down to 0.5 Micron, Removes chlorine, taste, odor, herbicides & pesticides Highly portable, lightweight, and durable Easy to use, simple to maintain. Filters can be cleaned up to 100 times Pour untreated water in the top and get clean, filtered water from the bottom chamber No power required The Traveler accommodates one Doulton SuperSterasyl filter candle Maximum output for the unit is 1 liter per hour The unit comes with a carrying bag to keep unit and filter together for easy portability The Traveler unit should only be fitted with genuine Doulton Sterasyl or SuperSterasyl candles For ease of transport, the upper chamber nests inside the lower chamber to save space The total capacity of the Traveler is 2 Liters

Feature

  • Doulton or AquaCera Brand
  • Makes Water from Lakes & Streams Safe to Drink
  • For use with municipal or natural water sources
  • Ideal for travel, camping, emergency relief, everyday use
  • Include Two Extra 5" Cartridge(Total Three)